Baden is a wine universe of its own, embedded in a rich
cultural landscape. On one side, there is the Bodensee (Lake
Constance), with its view of the Alps; on the other side, the
wonderful landscape of the Tauber River Valley. Here, the
gently rounded hills of Heidelberg; there, the massif of the
Kaiserstuhl that majestically overlooks the Rhine Valley.
Viticultural diversity here is not merely a whim of the times,
but rather something that has evolved naturally, as have its
climatic and geological differences.
Such extreme differences in landscape naturally result in
very distinctive microclimates, soil conditions and levels of
inclination. The subsoils, for example, range from gravel to
limestone, shell-limestone, loess, volcanic stone, granite,
gneiss and keuper. The climate in a region whose vineyards
are up to 400 km (250 miles) apart is no less diverse than
the soils. Baden’s leading producers are savvy enough to
regard viticulture from both a Romance and Germanic
perspective. They have long been as familiar with cultivating
Pinot grapes as with dealing with Riesling. Baden is Pinot
country. Led by Spätburgunder, the main grape variety, the
Pinot family accounts for over half of Baden’s total vineyard
area. Although Riesling accounts for only about 8 percent
of the growing area, it is no less significant. Riesling wines
of exceptional quality are produced in the Riesling enclaves
of the Ortenau, Kraichgau and Kaiserstuhl. With the Pinots,
they are the center of Baden’s wine character.